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Separation Anxiety - Is your dog afraid of being home alone?

What is separation anxiety?

Separation anxiety are behaviors that dogs exhibit when left alone. A more accurate term would be separation-related behaviors, as these behaviors occur exclusively or are intensified in the owner's absence. These behaviors can range from barking, whining, and pacing to destructive behaviors, inappropriate elimination, and even self-harm. Your dog is desperately trying to escape a perceived danger - which is being without you.

How to I know if my dog has separation anxiety?

Observe your dog's behavior when you are away. Key indicators of separation anxiety include:

  • Drooling, salivating
  • Destructive behavior or escape attempts
  • Inappropriate elimination
  • Vocalization (barking, howling, whining)
  • Hyperactivity or hypervigilance
  • Freezing or cowering standing or laying down 8sometimes when dogs are in crates, they are not relaxing - they are actually in a freeze state of fear.
  • Self-harm (licking, tail chasing)

If your dog exhibits any of these behaviors only or primarily when left alone, it is likely they are experiencing separation anxiety.

In separation-related issues, determining whether a dog feels fear or anxiety is difficult, as both trigger similar physiological responses. Luckily, the training method remains the same, focusing on increasing the dog's tolerance for being alone.

Is it my fault that my dog has separation anxiety?

It's common for owners to feel guilty about their dog's separation anxiety. It's crucial to understand that the cause is often multifactorial and not owner related. While genetics, early life experiences, and maternal influences play a role, an owner's actions do not directly cause separation anxiety. Instead of blaming yourself, focus on providing support for your dog and Contact us to get help implementing a training plan.

We always train below threshold - your dog should never feel afraid or anxious when you are working with Norwegian Dogtrainger!

Norwegian Dogtrainer

We will never suggest for you and your dog to train above your dog's threshold. Studies and learning theory tells us that it doesn't really work - It can create more fear and more anxiety without having an impact on your short and long term training objectives.

Aversive training methods, such as punishment or shock collars, are strongly discouraged for separation anxiety. These methods inflict fear and pain, potentially worsening the problem by creating negative associations with being alone as well as affecting your dog's memory, motivation and ability to learn new things.

What is desensitization, and how can it help my dog with separation anxiety?

Desensitization is a gradual process of exposing the dog to a low-intensity version of what it is afraid of - being home alone. By systematically and patiently working through a desensitization training plan that we tailor for your dog, you can help your dog build self-confidence and tolerance for being alone at home, while you can go out with a clear conscience knowing that your dog is fine being at home without you.

Feeding raw and fresh food to dogs

Dogs are carnivores ( and omnivores) and need a varied diet to support a long and healthy life. Just like us they are curious and enjoy variation and new experiences.
Always monitor your dog when they are eating. NEVER take the food away from your dog when they eat, this may lead to resource guarding. Make sure that the bowls are placed in such a way that the dog is comfortable standing and eating. Vary the height until you find the height that your dogs seems the most comfortable with. Make sure the dog can stand on a non-slip surface while eating.
Make sure your dog isn't hungry when you're doing learning activities with them. Hungry dog = zero concentration and often increased frustration. To feed a dog its meals from a slow feeder or a LickyMat can increase frustration, especially in puppies and adolescent dogs, but also in adult dogs.

How to easily feed raw and fresh food to your dog

  • Meat, fish, vegetables are good. Small amounts of eggs and some grains are okay.
  • Feed Meat , chicken, turkey, pork (pork needs cooking).
  • Game and beef in variation can be cooked and made into minced meat.
  • All Innards are good for your dog - and cheaper too!
  • Boiled fish of all kinds and boiled veggies
  • Vegetables should not make up more than 10% of a meal - you can feed broccoli, spinach, carrot, sweet potatoes,
    seaweed, beans, pumpkin, blueberries - you can blend the vegetables into a pure and add some spices and herbs ( I add a little
    bit of meat fond that I get from cooking out the frying pan with
    water after I cook some meat. Add it to the purèe to make it extra interesting - you can keep a batch of purèe in the fridge for a few days, or even put it in the freezer if you make a bigger batch.
  • Cooked eggs a few times a week (in some countries like Norway it can be served raw since there's no Salmonella in the eggs). Egg whites are best digested when they are cooked.
  • Feed little or no grains to your dog, just a few crumbles or leftovers from your own food.

Put all the ingredients in your dogs bowl and feed 2-3 times a day as follows:
Puppies: 3 times a day
Adults = 1-2 times a day

How much food does your dog need?

Puppies: up to 10% of their bodyweight a day reduce slowly as
they grow older
Adult dog: ca 1,5 - 2,5 % of their bodyweight a day
Add some nuts and seeds and herbs if you like - be sure to check first - as some nuts are poisonous to dogs!
You can add some spices for flavour - I like to add a little bit of turmeric to the meat and fish when I cook
meat for my dog, it's great for joint health and also helps reduce inflammation (for humans
as well).
The key is variation - add cartilage and bone like chicken feet, duck neck,
ox tail (for bigger dogs), rabbit ears (with fur if you can) - for small dogs, chicken
neck and feet, and rabbit ears, are an appropriate size. For big dogs - make sure you don't have a dog
that gobbles things, or eats inedible objects that can be unsafe. and no antlers! Ever!
How to feed raw bones to a dog:
https://dogsfirst.ie/raw-faq/how-to-feed-a-dog-bones/

Slik får hunden din til å slutte å trekke i båndet

So why is your dog pulling on the leash?

There could be a wide range of reasons to why your dog is pulling on the lead.

  • Old habit
  • Stress, pain, fearaggression, learned behaviour, disease
  • A poorly ajusted harness or other equipment - your dog might be trying to get away from the discomfort of the equipment.
  • Your dog doesn't like you, or is worried or afraid of you
  • predatory behaviour - females i heath nearby?
  • Du bruker flexibånd – Hunden din er desensitivisert da det alltid er motstand på båndet

There's always a reason, dogs just don't do things without a motivation behind it. The problem is - how do we find the reason, and what can we do to solve it?

How do you get your dog to stop pulling?

Det kan være lurt å ta med hunden din til en atferdskonsultasjon, så vi kan hjelpe deg å vurdere hvorfor hunden din trekker i båndet. Som hundeatferdskonsulenter ser vi på hele livssituasjonen til hunden din, ikke bare trekkingen. Det kan være andre biter som må på plass før hunden din er avslappet nok til å kunne lære å gå i løst bånd sammen med deg. Den gode nyheten er at alle hunder kan lære å gå i løs, smilende line – for noen hunder knekkes koden på en uke eller to, mens andre trenger mer tid for å endre en vane de har hatt lenge. Det er jo også to ender av båndet – så du som eier må ofte også gjøre noen endringer på hvordan du går tur med hunden din og kommuniserer gjennom båndet – Det er derfor det heter toveis kommunikasjon:-)

Det er lurt å begynnee treningen innendørs i rolige omgivelser – tren inn en oppmerksomhetslyd hvor målet er å få hunden til å gi deg oppmerksomhet, ikke se på deg eller gjøre noen kommandoer, men bare være klar til å følge deg og lytte til deg. Du bruker vanlige treningsmetoder for å koble lyden med det du vil hunden skal gjøre. “Vis meg oppmerksomhet – lyd – ros/godbit” inntil hunden skjønner hva du vil, deretter bytter du rekkefølge så sekvensen blir lyd- hunden viser deg oppmerksomhet – du roser/godbit” . Når det er spikret fortsetter dere treningen ute og øker vanskelighetsgrad etter hvert. Når hunden gir deg oppmerksomhet (tar opp ørene, snur hodet i din retning, stopper osv) kan du koble på “bytt retning” som du viser med kroppen – du snur deg og går en annen vei, hunden følger etter deg. Etter hvert vil hunden alltid ha et lite øye på deg og være bevisst på hva du driver med og kunne følge deg til og med uten at du gjør lyden eller roser/belønner. Alt du gjør er å bytte retning og gå en annen vei.

Do you still find it hard to make loose leash walking work?

Det kan være utallige årsaker til at du ikke får til å gå med løs line med hunden din. Det er alltid lurt å snakke med en profesjonell trener som kan hjelpe deg og hunden din med å lykkes. We're happy to help.

Noen av de vanligste feilene mange gjør er å være utydelig når dere trener så hunden din ikke skjønner hva du vil, eller at du ikke er konsekvent? Eller at du bytter retning så ofte at hunden lærer at hvis de bare venter litt så kommer du tilbake – for du går bare noen skritt den andre veien. Trener du for ofte eller for sjelden kan det også påvirke resultatet, eller hvis du trener når hunden er opptatt av noe annet. Hvis hunden din har høyt stressnivå eller underliggende sykdommer kan det være vanskelig for deg å lære hunden nye ting.

    Walking on a loose leash is NOT the same as heeling!

    For at hunden din skal ha det fint på tur er det viktig at turen ikke blir lydighetstrening. Hunden skal ikke “gå fot”. Det er heller ikke kontakttrening hvor hunden din skal gi deg øyenkontakt. Hunder generelt liker ikke å se noen inn i øynene, i hundeverden er det en trussel og svært ubehagelig. Det er nok at hunden ser i din retning, eller viser med kroppsspråk at den følger med på deg. Om du tidligere har trent hunden din til å gå fot og stirre deg inn i øynene på tur, er det noe du bør prøve å avlære. For hundens nakke er det svært smertefullt å gå med hodet vendt sidelengs og oppover for å prøve å se på deg hele tiden. Nakkestivhet kan følge til andre problemer med muskulatur, kompensasjonsskader eller smerter, som kan gi hunden din problemer, og deg veterinærregninger.

    Be Patient.

    Copyright: Depositphotos

    Sometimes it's one step forward and two steps back. Notice and celebrate your wins:-) Follow the recipe and do it correctly and your dog will be loose leash walking like a dream within a month or even weeks. This is off course, depending on no underlying issues that needs to be addressed first. if you suspect something else is going on

    If you suspect something else is going on, please reach out to us, and we'll help you and your dog get moving in the right direction.

    Does your dog need to sit on command?

    Have you ever counted the number of times you ask your dog to sit during a random day? When you get up in the morning and put on the harness to go our for a little stroll? Sit. Before breakfast is served? Sit. Maybe a chewbone before you leave the house? Sit. When you come home from work and she welcomes you in the hallway, tail wagging? Sit. You then put the harness on again to go for a little walk before dinner. Sit. You exit the staircase in the building, open the main entrance door downstairs. Sit. You open the door and go outside together.

    Design: Martine E. Langaard

    During your walk you meet a little Yorkie, a good friend of your dog. The Guardian has a snack in her pocket and asks if she can give your dog a little treat? You say: "Yes, but only if she sits first". The owner asks your dog to Sit. She does, she gets a treat. on the way back home you ask your dog to Sit while you take the mail out of the mail box. You go inside, up the stairs. Sit. Take off the harness and enter tthe livingroom. You then go into the kitchen, she follows you - you tell her to go to her Place, and you start to make dinner. You cook sausages, cut off a small piece, ask her to come over and Sit. She does, and gets the treat. She remains there, staring loningly at the counter, stands up, gets a bit closer. You tell her to Sit again, she gets another piece of sausage. After your dinner you make her dinner. Sit. Stay. Stay. She eats it. After a while you go for your afternoon walk, same procedure, harness, Sit. Sit, open door, staircase, Sit, main door, outside. You walk around the block and you meet an acquaintance. you talk for a while, your dog would rather sniff something in the grass and pulls a little. You ask her to Sit.Wait. You go home, you sit on the couch, she want to join you. She gets a little bored after a while, you play together, you toss her favourite toy, she runs and gets it. Sit. Toss. retrieve. Sit.Toss. Retrieve and repeat. You go for an evening stroll. Harness on.Sit down.Door opens. Sit. Exit door, downstairs, Sit. Open main door, exit. Inside the house again it's time to go to bed. You climb into your bed, she sleeps by your side. "She has become a bit stiff in her body and hindlegs", you notice . "She can't always make the jump up to bed, as she used to", you think to yourself and lift her up to bed.

    Dere går inn i stuen, hun følger deg inn på kjøkkenet. Du kommandere henne på plassen sin, og begynner på middagen din . Du lager pølser, skjærer av en liten bit og ber henne om å komme bort til deg. Sitt. Hun får godbiten og blir sittende å se lengselsfullt på pølsene på benken. Hun reiser seg og kommer litt nærmere. Du gir henne en pølsebit til. Sitt. Etter middagen din er ferdig lager du middag til henne. Sitt. Vent. Bli. Hun spiser, og dere gjør dere klare til å gå ut på ettermiddagstur, samme rutine som vanlig. Sele. Sitt. Døren, Sitt, ned trappen, Sitt og ut døren.

    Dere går rundt kvartalen og møter en du kjenner, dere snakker litt sammen, hunden din vil helst snuse på noe i veikanten og trekker litt i båndet. Sitt. Vent. Dere går hjem, du setter deg i sofaen, hun vil komme opp til deg. Sitt, Fot og Hopp opp. Utover kvelden kjeder hun seg litt, dere leker sammen, du kaster favorittbamsen og hun henter den til deg. Sitt. Kast. Sitt. Kast. Sitt. Kast. Du gjemmer noen godbiter rundt omkring i stuen. Sitt. Let. Kvelden fortsetter. Sitt. hopp opp. Hopp ned. Sitt. Bli . Tannpuss for dere begge, du vasker potene hennes mens hun sitter på gulvet. Kveldstur – Sitt. Du tar på henne selen, åpner døren til leiligheten. Sitt. Dere går ned trappen, ned til utgangsdøren i blokken. Sitt. Du åpner døren og dere går ut sammen.

    Vel inne igjen er det på tide å gå til sengs. Du går opp i sengen din, hun får lov å sove sammen med deg. Du syns hun er blitt veldig stiv i kroppen, hun klarer ikke å hoppe opp i sengen selv lenger. Mindre spenst i bakbena og litt kraftløs, tenker du og løfter henne opp i sengen din.

    Think through what you and your dog do during a day. Does your dog really need to sit for a treat, for a sausage, for dinner, for meets outside, for harnesses? Many dogs and some breeds more than others 8like greyhounds and long legged dogs and puppies) are uncomfortable sitting both inside, and outside. in combination with slippery floors, it can be strenuous. Add the strain of excessive ball throwing (for some dogs), frisbee, running, fast pace walking - there are many activities that strains the muscles and joins for a dog.

    If your dog wants to sit - then let her. If she'd rather stand or lie down, let her. If she prefers standing when you throw the toys, that's great. Sit is often an unnecessary level of administration and adds to the number of commands your dog gets in a day . It can also reduce the dogs sense of self determination while adding extra tention to your joints and muscle.

    So how important is it for you that your dog sits? Maybe it's perfectly fine that she does whatever is the most comfortable for her:-)